My hometown - the city that commited suicide

Tonight I am coming back to Ireland after 2 weeks in Poland. This time I went to Poland for kind of rest, and my lungs treatment but it was very busy time - as usual.

Day after my arriving in my home city - Łódź (Woodch) - I devoted Friday afternoon to nice girl - an Irish Examiner journalist. She came to Łódź on purpose of writing the article about the factories that moved from Ireland to Poland recently, trying to answer the question, will the newly opened factories and increasing number of vacancies keep Poles in Poland, or rather it won’t? There is a couple of them - Dell, Indesit, Gillette, and Procter and Gamble (they have shut down factory in Nenagh and just have opened new one in Aleksandrów Łódzki - satellite town of Łódź).

Unfortunately, heads of the factories weren’t willing to talk with her, and she had appointments only with city authorities. Our local authorities presented her a false, too far overoptimistic picture of my town - which is still 2nd biggest city in Poland.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Piotrkowska Street

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Piotrkowska Street

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Liberty Square, former protestant church today is a catholic one.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Liberty Square, former town hall, today it is a Archaeology Museum

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Liberty Square, statue of Tadeusz Kościuszko, one of the biggest Polish heroes. (check wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ko%C5%9Bciuszko)
Łódź is one of the youngest towns in Poland. In the beginning of 19th century, there were only about 500 citizens, but at the end of the same century, there was couple of hundred thousands. Short history of the town is very interested especially due to its industrial and multinational character. Modern city was founded mostly by Jewish and German factory owners, who built their industrial properties on the road to Piotrków. This former road, is a main and most representative street of Łódź, and it is well known both in Poland, Germany and Russia.

In the 19th century, Poland was divided between 3 powers - Russia, Germany, and Austria. Łódź, was on the very west part of the Russian empire, and was the biggest textile industry centre in the Central Europe. The city was a crucible of many cultures and nations - Poles (mostly workers, but also teachers, doctors, architects), Germans (factory owners, traders, engineers, teachers, printers), Jews (mostly traders, factory owners, and many of poor people occupying a poor part of the town - Bałuty) and Russians (the smallest element - mostly traders). All those nations used to coexist in a relative peace. There is an interesting fact - many German citizens of the town, changed their sens of ethnicity, and in the beginning of 20th century many of them claimed to be Polish. Anyway… there was a great conception that overwhelmed ethnicity - a conception of a local citizen - Lodzermensch - which means (in German) a man from Łódź. All nations were co-operating together. The first local newspaper - Lodzer Anzeiger - was bilingual (German and Polish). The 2nd local newspaper - Lodzer Zeitung - was only German, but was printed till the begining of the 2nd World War, when Germans changed the name of the town to Litzmannstadt, and the newspaper became official Nazi propaganda.

Johan Petersilge - German printer is buried on the Old cemetery.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Pomorska Street - One of the palaces of factory owners families. Building is falling into ruin, in a couple of years there won’t be anything to save. It is CITY CENTRE…

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Revolution 1910 Street, great house with the remains of trade signs in Russian and Polish. Signs are about 100 years old.

All nations were helping each other, e.g. during erecting catholic cathedral founds were donated both by catholic, protestant, jewish and russian orthodox population and factory owners. The same thing was quite common during erecting temples of other religions.
Though, after 1st World War, and reborn of a state of Poland, many of Germans (who still claimed to be German) had left the town, the beginning of the suicide is the beginning of the 2nd World War when Poland was invaded from both sides by Germany and Russia (ok… they say Soviet Union) and betrayed by its allies - France and England.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Revolution 1910 Street, City centre - old house not renovated since times prior 2nd World War. You can see old sign in Yidish (or Hebrew). There was a Jewish asylum/hospital for poor Jews.
Germans took the town, and big part of its local population became devoted nazis. They incorporated west part of Poland into 3d German Reich, and they changed the name of the town (Lodz - was commonly known in Germany) to Litzmannstadt (after general Litzmann who died near Lodz, during one of the battles of 1st World War). Poles became slaves and 2nd category folk. Jews, were closed behind the barbed wire fence of 2nd biggest in Poland gettho. Germans placed it in the traditionally Jewish and the oldest part of the town - Bałuty (the place where I live). Gettho in Łódź with its enormous Jewish population was one of the biggest textil industries working for German army. Łódź hasn’t been destroyed during the war, so gettho survived in its almost unchanged form till today. Despite of the profits and benefits of the Gettho, Germans were conducting a policy of systematically extermination of Jewish population. In the begging they rely on natural factors as diseases and famine that spread throughout that overcrowded district of the town, but later they started to kill them in a industrial way. Jews from Łódź were systematically sent via Radegast Station (old siding changed into gettho station) to Chełmno on Ner river, where Germans built a temporary death camp on purpose of extermination Jews from Lodz.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Radegast Station (Bahnhof).

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Radegast Station, originall German freight car used to transport people to death and concentration camps

They were killed in a mobile gas chambers - specially prepared vans with a chambers supplied by exhaust fumes. Later Germans built a regular gas chambers and crematories. Gettho and its Jews survived till late 1944 when almost all of them were sent to Auschwitz. Germans left about 1000 Jews on purpose of tidy up emptied ghetto. They intended to execute those 1000 in the Jewish cemetery (which is the biggest in Europe), they even dug massgraves for them, but the town was taken by Russian Red Army. Germans made something other before Russians came. There was an old factory changed to the criminal prison, a small concentration camp for Poles. On the day when Russian tanks appeared on the east outskirts of the town, there were couple of hundred prisoners. Germans set the fire, and all of them burned alive (survived only 2 or 3 of them). Today the ruin of the factory is a war monument.
So… one of the local nations almost completely exterminated their neighbours.

To be honest… not all of the local Germans were bad and nazi. There is a great story of one of the German pastors who didn’t want to collaborate with their nazi compatriots, and who claimed “I am German, but here is Poland”. The most known tragic story concern family of one of the factory owners and founders of the town - Scheibler. They originally came from Saxony in Germany, but after more than 100 years family became local, and Polish. As many Poles with German origins, they were fighting in Polish army trying to defend their homeland. One of them was sent to the concentration camp.
Situation changed completely after so called “liberation” - taking the town by Russian Red Army. Germans were fleeing in panic. Many of them, decent people were forced to leave everything and to run for their lives. Poles took the bloody revenge over them. Remaining Germans were hunted and killed, sometimes they were saved by some Poles who, after 5 years of genocide, still saw humans in their former lords.

In a couple of days the 2nd nation of the town vanished completely. The era of Russian occupation and terror has started. Officially Poland was a free state, but Russian army was occupying the land, Russian communists were ruling Poland.

After the war Łódź was a town without elite. Jewish elite was killed by Germans. Polish elite was killed by Germans and Russians (or at least sent to the gulags). Germans fled or were killed by Poles and Russians. In the town survived only Polish working class. Private property was forbidden and everything - especially great textile factories became a property of so called “people”.

For next 40 years Łódź as a industrial town was in a kind o MATRIX - a virtual reality of communistic economical system. There were no challenge, no sensible planing, estimating aims, targets of production. Most of the production were sent to Russia. Communistic system wasn’t profitable, and was donated by the state. That kind of reality lasted 40 years, and crushed when all of the sources of funding dried. For more than 50 years Łódź was avoided by any development according to the communist principle and idea of working class town, that can’t be rich, and nice looking. For over 50 years buildings were falling into ruin.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Pomorska Street, City Centre… see the surface of the road.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Nowomiejska Street, former part of Piotrkowska, and part of the old road to Piotrków. Strictly city centre

In 1989 we became free, and in one or two years, Matrix collapsed. The factories lost all of their markets, and were shut down. Instantly couple of hundred thousand workers (mostly women - seamstresses) lost their jobs.

Since early 90ties of 20th century Łódź has been getting worse and worse, despite of some attempts of changes. City, that was forced to stay in one place for over 40 years, despite of the changing world economics, was like a sinking ship.

Łódź, Lodz, Poland

Streets aren’t efficient and too narrow comparing to the modern traffic. Traffic jams are common.

Today… workers in factories like Indesit, Gilette, Procter and Gamble earning about 400 euro/month. My wife is working as a secretary, human resources in a broker house, earning monthly from 250 to 400 Euro. There is dozens of thousands of people who earn about 150 - 180 euro / month. Our job centres can offer job with that salaries, or… something which is a modern slavery. Temporary work - training like - for 100 euro /month. Poland as a state is a monster of taxation, so having own business in Łódź is really hard, especially facing ruling corruption. Population is decreasing, and every plane heading Dublin or Shannon is full of passengers.

Today our city authorities are proud of Piotrkowska street (main street), but when you turn to the street across, you will see dirty tenements falling into ruins, with poor people living in. Today our city authorities are proud of decreasing unemployment rate, but there is no point to be proud of massive emigration to Ireland and UK. In Łódź, ambulance crews were killing patients using medications, and were selling just killed people to the funeral parlours. In Łódź, police made a horrific discovery, in a home of a poor family. They discovered bodies of children kept in the barrels at home. Parents were alcoholics and also very poor.

My home town is dying and making the best of a bad job, or put on a brave face, won’t change it at all.

If you want to see a real life, a dirty poor districts, old gettho, etc. vist Łódź - so called “Promised Land”…

kick it on kick.ie

www.fotoblogi.eu

13 Responses to “My hometown - the city that commited suicide”


  1. 1 Primal Sneeze

    Excellent, MacKrozer. Excellent! This is why blogs can often be trusted more than the newspapers.

    I hope you publish a version on the Polish language version of your site. It would be interesting to see the comments other Poles make. They may be more scathing than you I suspect - you are too polite.

  2. 2 JW

    Fantastic and informative article. However, I think this is an unnecessarily pessimistic view of the situation. Granted, investment has been scarce and the state of a lot of the buildings are in disrepair, and many have migrated away from the city to find work abroad. However, things do not change overnight and it will take time for the effects of investment from the EU and foreign companies to filter through. Many of the Polish people in the UK I have spoken to speak of going back to Poland to buy property and settle, once they have saved enough, and I think this is both commendable and realistic. Then you will see investment grow to improve the local conditions. Things will get better eventually as money from the newly created capitalist systems flows around and through the EU and foreign investment increases. I am convinced that Lodz and other cities in Poland will grow and prosper over time, especially knowing the resourcefulness and industrialness of the Polish people.

    I would also state that France and Britain did not ‘betray’ Poland in the beginning as Britain went to war when Poland was invaded. However, America and the allies did fall short after Poland was ‘liberated’ and fail to stop the appropriation of Poland by the megalomaniac Stalin. For that we should be regretful.

    Thanks again for a great article.

  3. 3 mackozer

    Well… I don’t agree with most of your thesis.

    I know dozens of Poles who left the country for UK 5 - 7 years ago… They intended to stay only temporarily. They haven’t come back yet, and there is no any signs of change. Many Poles buy properties in UK and Ireland. They can afford it here.

    England and France DID betray Poland. They signed the war pact with Poland only to prevent Germany from invading the West. The war proclaimed by Brits and French, was called “funy war” or “silly war”. They were able to invade Germany but did nothing. Later… they were intersted only in manpower to reinforce small Brittish army, that’s why they agreed and allowed Poles to orgnise new troops in UK. After the war UK, France and USA sold us to Soviet Russia in Jalta conference.

    Brittish MI5 or Secret Service killed Polish prime minister and chief of Polish army - General Władysław Sikorski, in a “so called” plane crush near Giblartar. Why? Becasue Sikorski agreed for international Red Cross commission to investigate mas graves of Polish army and police officers in Katyń forest (they were killed by Russians). Churchil didn’t want to allow him to go into troubles with Stalin.
    Brittish MI5 haven’t opened the Sikorski files for the last 50 years. It is obvious why…

    We gave to Brits broken code and fully operative Enigma machine, but they didn’t want to thank our coders. For almost 50 years they haven’t mentioned Polish coders from who they got Enigma as a gift. Finally, couple of years ago, they agreed and claimed that Enigma code was broken by Polish coders.

    We were defending British skies and land, but finally all of the Polish pilots and soldiers lost their veteran rights in Britain, and Polish government on exile was not respected by Brits anymore.

    Let me mention Munchen conference in 1938, where Chamberlain allowed Hitler to take big part of Czechoslovakia, another ally of UK. After couple of days, Germany invaded whole country and proclaimed Czech a part of Germany. Where were British and French army?
    Sorry, but United Kingdom is well known of betraying its smaller allies.

    I have more respect to the enemies than to friends who betray me.

    I have nothing against people of UK personally, and I can understand the ignorance of some of them. Poland is small country somewhere far in the East (though it is strictly Central Europe). Who gives a f..k for Poland?

  4. 4 mackozer

    and of course… I don’t blame only UK or France for all of that what happened to us. It is mostly fault of our indolent Polish politics in the late 30ies of 20th century. They believed in empty words of France and UK, and didn’t expected attack from the east.

    Poles were always fallen heroes, and we were always proud of our martyrs, but… I prefer our nation to be rich and our land not destroyed, to being proud in the ruins.

    In my opinion we should be ally of Germany than UK or USA (France is no longer important).

  5. 5 The Irish Man.

    Blame all but yourselves, yep that’s it.
    Ireland built itself up from the bottom with hard Irish workers. We did not sit on our backsides giving out. So stop moaning and go back and get your country on the right road to recovery.
    No wonder Poland is crying out for it’s people to come back. You all have deserted her in her time of need. Shame on you all.

  6. 6 mackozer

    Heh…poor bigot who can not read properly (especially with the comments). Read the text again maybe then you will understand, who I am blaming.

    If you won’t read my comments with understanding, and you are going to insult all of us your comments won’t be let through.

  7. 7 mackozer

    Moreover mr smart :) you should read something about economics… Poland economically is getting better thank to the massive emigration and money earned by us abroad. The same thing happened to Ireland (together with money put by European Union).

    If you are going to express your ignorance do it anywhere but not here

  8. 8 mackozer

    Mr Irish Man or Irish and proud of it (you use two nicknames). You are accusing me of betraying my country due to my emigration, but you did the same. You admitted in one of your earlier comments that you used to be an emigrant for long time.

    So, let again we have an example of your inferiority complex

  9. 9 Danuta Reah

    Hi - I liked this article a lot. I have travelled to Lodz twice, and I found it a city with a lot of energy and a lot of potential - I have a connection with the university and I thought the students were full of optimism and enthusiastic for Poland and for the city. I love what I have seen of Lodz, and I hope it prospers.
    The story of Poland is a tragic one - the countries of eastern Europe were betrayed by the allies after the 2nd World War, and they suffered far more than the west. Over here in western Europe we see the end of WW2 as a happy one: Hilter was defeated. But it wasn’t for the countries that were handed over to Stalin. Stalin was worse than Hitler. I have written a book about this under my pen name, Carla Banks, The Forest of Souls. The focus is more on Belarus than Poland though I think it is the same story in many ways for both countries.
    Great article, please write more.
    Danuta Reah

  10. 10 mackozer

    Danuta, thanks for your comment. Yes indeed, but Poland had learnt what meant the Soviet occupation not after the war, but in September 1939, since Poland was attacked from both sides.

    Btw. Western Belarus is a former part of Poland, and many Soviet crimes were committed on Polish POWs. Mass graves of Polish POWs, teachers, clerks, postmen and policemen killed by Soviets (or Russians - since they were speaking that language), are scattered around Ukraine Belarus and Russia. The famous (or infamous) ones are Katyn, Miednoje and Ostaszkow. Some of my friends use to survey those mass graves. Try to imagine open graves with half decayed bodies (no oxygen conditions preserve bodies) dressed with green (soldiers) or dark blue uniforms (policemen) with bullet hole in the skull. Papers, letters from families and pictures of children or wives in the pockets… and the smell of death - a real one.

  11. 11 Nick Knight

    I enjoyed reading your piece. I would be a more optomistic. I believe a lot of Eastern Europeans are going to return as the economy improves. This is esspecially true given the fact that Ireland has failed to invest in their country. The conditions are poor, and even with all the money they have not been building a better Ireland. As Eastern Europe improves, I believe many more will return then most think. I thin this is even more true of countries like Lithuania,and the other Baltics.

  12. 12 Nick Knight

    I enjoyed reading your piece. I would be a bit more optimistic. I believe a lot of Eastern Europeans are going to return as the economy improves. This is esspecially true given the fact that Ireland has failed to invest in their country. The conditions are poor, and even with all the money they have not been building a better Ireland. As Eastern Europe improves, I believe many more will return then most think. I thin this is even more true of countries like Lithuania,and the other Baltics.

  1. 1 Hosting365.pl at Ambrand Dot Com

Leave a Reply